Introduction

Because the human body does not produce Vitamin C, this essential vitamin must be introduced to the body. As a result of the difficulties in getting dietary Vitamin C to the outer skin layers, increasing diet Vitamin C is not a viable route for increasing skin Vitamin C levels. Therefore topical application is the most viable option for increasing skin Vitamin C levels. However, many skincare treatments have failed to produce an increase in skin Vitamin C levels and thus proven ineffective in delivering skincare benefits^​1​. Why?

There are very serious challenges associated with topically delivering stable L-Ascorbic Acid past the outer stratum corneum skin barrier^​2​. These challenges can be summarised as follows:

a. L-Ascorbic Acid Stability

“In spite of all those approaches, in general ascorbic acid stability remains a challenge, and some of these approaches (e.g., very low pH) can lead to unwanted aesthetic skin effects”. ^​2​

Because L-Ascorbic Acid form of Vitamin C is highly unstable under normal conditions, it quickly degrades in the presence of water, air, heat, pH, light and metals^​3​. This represents the biggest challenge to formulators is preparing effective Vitamin C cosmetic preparations^​2,4​. For example, a 20% water based solution of L-Ascorbic Acid will be 50% degraded within 2 weeks and 90% degraded within 4 weeks under normal storage conditions. Therefore, shelf life of water-based L-Ascorbic Acid serums and creams is very short.

b. Skin Penetration

“For skin absorption of L-Ascorbic Acid to occur, formulation pH must be less than 3.5” ^​5​.

As L-Ascorbic Acid is a water-soluble, acidic molecule, it cannot penetrate the stratum corneum under normal conditions. Less than 1% of the topical dose enters the skin^​2​. Being an acid means that for it to penetrate the skin, the formula must have an acidic pH of less than 3.5 ^​5​. At higher pH levels, it will not penetrate the skin and will remain on the skin surface only to be washed away. A serum or cream with an acidic pH of less than 3.5 can be highly irritating to many people. A water-based Vitamin C serum that is not irritating, will be unable to penetrate the skin. 

Discussion

Poor stability of L-Ascorbic Acid and it’s inability to penetrate the skin barrier pose significant challenges to skincare formulators in using this ingredient. Many Vitamin C creams and serums fall short of meeting these challenges and are ineffective in delivering stable L-Ascorbic Acid to the skin. Years of scientific research have failed to solve the stability and penetration problems of water-based L-Ascorbic Acid formulations. These formulations remain unstable and ineffective.

Read the ingredient label carefully. Avoid water-based L-Ascorbic Acid formulated Vitamin C products.

The Solution

Because our Vitamin C Serum and our C E Ferulic Serum use new generation derivatives and nano-formulation technology formulations, they overcome these challenges. Our nano-based formulations produce stable serums with stable derivatives that can penetrate the skin barrier to increase Vitamin C skin levels. Nano-encapsulation and penetration enhancement of active ingredients provides enhanced ingredient stability and superior skin penetration of the biological actives. Our proprietary Green Micelle™ nano-emulsion formulation system uses organic ingredients to form nano-encapsulating micelles that are stable and skin penetrating.

References